4/30/2023 0 Comments Flycut toolI always tape up the valley to keep the debree out of there. I put the heads in the bridgeport and cut away the intake side so I can see what I'm doing and hold a vaccum on the chips. As you can see this is time cousuming - I actually have 2 cut apart heads to do this with 1 for the int and 1 for the exh. Once that is determined then put the head back on - you only a couple of bolts - let the cutter drop down to where you last cut it and reset the stop to cut the proper depth. Bring the piston up to TDC - put the cutter in the head - put the head on the block with a used head gasket - let the cutter drop - set the stop - machie the valve relief - take the head off and measure the depth with a dial-caliper and some sort of straight edge across the relief so you have a before and after number. Add 1/8th inch to that and get the proper cutters int & exh. Almost all metal cutting comes down to these basics and machining and troubleshooting are night and day when you understand them.Yes - First Always use a drill motor! Next determine what size valves you have in your engine. Sorry to sound like a nanny on this, but you really should crack a text book and study the basics - how cutting speed works and how to calculate, how metal cuts and where and what the corresponding rake and clearance angles should be etc. In order to set the compression ratio, there are a few things you will need to know. More about Flycut (Clipboard manager) The current version of the software is 1.5 and it has been updated on. incorrect tool geometry (do some searches, somewhere here I've posted pics and diagrams for fly cutters ), incorrect speed and maybe not enough rigidity in either machine and/or fly cutter set up. Piston flycut tool First off, is the cubic centimeters (cc) in the combustion chambers of your heads, and you will need to know the deck height, as well.irst, lets discuss the compression ratio. Flycut (Clipboard manager) is a free Mac program, belonging to the category Development. When your mill won't go so slow, a you can use carbide which will work at higher speeds. As a guess maybe the dia is 4 or 5 inches? means the mill should be going no more than 50-80 rpm. Best for fine finishing surfaces with cut depths of up to 0.030' in steel and 0.080' in aluminum and plastics. Body & bars are cryogenically treated for stability. Body & bars coated with clear zinc for corrosion resistance. Cutting speed for hss and cast iron is say 80 feet per minute. Cutter body fits shell mill arbor with 1' boss & 3/8' key. For everything, drilling, milling, lathe etc. I would doubt that mill will go slow enough for a tool steel (which i assume means HSS) cutter. This video walks you through the process, helping your understand how to set this up on machine. Whether you’re screwing material down to the spoilboard, or doing through cuts that slightly cut into it, eventually you’re going to have to fly cut or level your spoil board. I lap cast iron dry, seems to work better for me.Īlso some close-up pics of your cutter would be helpful. The spoil board on a CNC router is considered a consumable commodity. Once you resolve that issue if you still don't have the surface you desire you may try lapping the part on a hard flat surface with some 600 grit wet/dry paper. I bet the cutter is taking a bit more on one edge than it is on the other. All the visible tooling marks go the same direction. Thanks everyoneLooks like your machine may be slightly out of tram. I fed the work into the cutter really slow and took only a very light cut. I have a RF 45 Clone that I ran on the next speed up from slowest. The end result is better but its still pretty average and I could certainly not charge for that kind of job. I ground it with a bit of an angle on the face. I was using a face mill but I have just started using my fly cutter and some 3/8 tool steel. I am new to machining and I have just started flycutting some cylinder heads for my mini.
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